SEATTLE (AP) — Jim Whittaker, who in 1963 became the first American to reach the peak of Mount Everest, has passed away at the age of 97.
Whittaker’s historic ascent came a decade after Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay first made the climb, marking a pivotal moment in American mountaineering history.
Whittaker died at his home in Port Townsend, Washington, as confirmed by a family statement.
This monumental achievement vaulted Whittaker into the public eye, transforming him from a reserved climber into a celebrated figure sought after for appearances and support of various charitable causes.
His friendship with prominent figures, including Robert Kennedy, furthered his celebrity status. The two climbed a 14,000-foot peak in Canada, named Mount Kennedy in honor of the assassinated politician.
Reflecting on Kennedy, Whittaker once remarked, Bobby Kennedy was one of the grittiest little guys you’ve ever seen,” illustrating his admiration for the late politician’s character.
Whittaker’s journey in climbing began in the Olympic Mountains while he was a Boy Scout, leading him to often describe the combination of beauty and peril in the mountains as a spiritually enriching experience. You’re in nature, participating in God’s creation ... it’s such a high, such a spiritual thing,” he noted in a 1981 interview.
Throughout his illustrious career, he climbed Mount Rainier over 100 times, emphasizing the unpredictable nature of climbing. “The mountains are fair, but they really don’t care,” he said, underscoring the inherent risks involved in the sport.
Whittaker’s legacy includes leading a group of climbers with disabilities up Mount Rainier in 1981, which he regarded as one of his proudest accomplishments. For these climbers, he referred to their experience as “Mount Everest.”
In the latter years of his life, Whittaker remained a voice for freedom in the climbing community, resisting regulations such as mandatory use of electronic locators for climbers, asserting that it would detract from the adventure of exploring the wild.
His passing marks the end of an era for many in the climbing community, who will remember him not only for his monumental achievements but also for the spirit of adventure he championed throughout his life.






















