There exists a scene in Sudan where the hues of daily life could almost mask the backdrop of a brutal civil war. In the Jebel Marra mountains, adorned in vibrant colors, women set out each morning with their children on donkeys to tend to their farms. Utilizing the fertile Mediterranean-like climate, they grow an array of crops - peanuts, oranges, apples, and strawberries - rare commodities for a nation amidst one of the gravest hunger crises in the world. Jebel Marra’s organic oranges were once celebrated for their juiciness, cherished throughout the country.
However, as fighting has ravaged the nation for over two years, nearly 25 million people, half the population, now face critical food shortages, with over 600,000 in famine conditions according to the UN. Yet, in the ironically lush surroundings of Jebel Marra, where food grows abundantly, farmers confront a grim reality: they are unable to transport their goods to market.
We almost sell them for free and sometimes get rid of them on the way to market, because they get rotten, laments Hafiz Ali, an orange vendor in Golo, nestled within the mountainous landscape of Central Darfur. Insecurity, compounded by deteriorating road conditions, has rendered transportation nearly impossible.
The Jebel Marra region remains the last stronghold of the Sudan Liberation Army-Abdulwahid (SLA-AW), which has maintained neutrality throughout the ongoing war – a stark contrast to the chaos unfolding on its borders. The RSF (Rapid Support Forces) and allied militias have cordoned off major roads, isolating this agricultural haven from vital national markets.
Traders seek to navigate through treacherous routes towards el-Fasher, but the frequent blockades often result in produce dying en route. Recent truces have revived some local trade, yet conditions remain precarious with ongoing risks of armed robberies and exploitation at checkpoints.
As the ravages of war continue to constrict life and commerce, farmers and vendors echo a desperate plea – their connection to the land is unwavering, yet they yearn for a return to normalcy, a long-forgotten dream overshadowed by war. One fruit trader poignantly remarks, We're not part of the war - we just want to sell our oranges.
