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Caviar Amidst Chaos: Perseverance in Israel’s Fish Farms

In war-torn regions, some caviar producers continue operations despite the dangers posed by active conflict.

By Jack NicasSource: nytimes.com1 min read
Caviar Amidst Chaos: Perseverance in Israel’s Fish Farms
Image via nytimes.com

In brief

In the face of ongoing conflict with Hezbollah, a handful of caviar producers in northern Israel remain dedicated to their craft, navigating the ruins left by rockets and missile strikes. Assaf Koren, who manages Caviar Galilee, is one of those tenacious operators. For over a year, shrapnel from aerial assaults has consistently invaded their fish pools, yet the need to care for their prized osetra sturgeon remains paramount. These fish, essential for producing high-value caviar, must be fed daily, regardless of the surrounding turmoil.

Koren reflects on the mental strain of asking employees to come to work amid such instability but feels responsible for the fish that promise significant profits—estimated at around $40 million from the sale of the extracted caviar. The recent destruction caused by a Hezbollah rocket only strengthened their resolve to push through and continue operations. The laborers, after a brief shock from the events, returned with determination, proving that for some, survival and dedication to their trade are intertwined even amidst chaos.Though much of northern Israel has evacuated, these farmers stand resilient, embodying a spirit of perseverance as they strive to protect their livelihoods and produce the luxurious caviar that garners international demand.

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