In brief
In the ongoing debate over the beloved arepa, chefs and citizens of Colombia and Venezuela passionately defend their cultural claims, intertwining this culinary conflict with issues of nationalism and identity.
A lingering culinary battle marks the border between Colombia and Venezuela, not over politics or soccer, but the cherished arepa — a versatile round cornbread popularized in both nations. This staple food, omnipresent from breakfast to late-night munchies, is woven into the cultural fabric, igniting fervent debates over its origins and supremacy. “Everyone defends their territory,” remarks Gustavo Zapata, a chef at the renowned Sancho Paisa restaurant chain in Medellín, Colombia’s second-largest city, as he prepares an array of arepas for customers. The rivalry over arepas echoes other feuds worldwide — from Peruvians and Ecuadorians fighting over ceviche to Australians and New Zealanders claiming the meringue dessert, pavlova.Yet, underlying these culinary disputes are deeper political currents. Venezuelan President Nicolás Maduro has famously asserted that the arepa is exclusively Venezuelan, using it to foster national pride amidst challenges in his country. Meanwhile, as millions of Venezuelans have sought refuge internationally due to economic upheaval, they have taken their versions of arepas along, intensifying the global discourse surrounding this beloved dish.As the debate continues, one thing remains clear: The arepa serves not just as sustenance but as a symbol rich with historical significance, sparking culinary admiration and pride in both Colombia and Venezuela.
