In brief
In a recent development, Turkey has withdrawn its request for the European Union to enforce strict rules regarding the preparation of doner kebabs, a proposal that would have particularly impacted Germany's kebab industry. The Turkish International Doner Federation sought to establish a 'Traditional Speciality Guaranteed' label that would restrict certain ingredients and preparation methods. The move faced significant opposition from German authorities who emphasized the cultural adaptation of the kebab in Germany. Turkey's efforts to regulate the kebab's authenticity reflected its status as a national dish but encountered resistance from a strong German food industry that has flourished over the years.
A Turkish attempt to force kebab shops in the EU to adhere to strict rules on how to make a doner kebab has been withdrawn.
If the bid for a 'Traditional Speciality Guaranteed' label had succeeded, restrictions would have been imposed on the types of ingredients that could be used.
Germany's kebab industry would have been particularly skewered, as the quintessential high street doner has evolved over the decades to be rather different than the original from Turkey.
Turkish authorities argued the doner should be viewed as a national dish that spread to Europe through the migration of Turks. But German officials said its take on the kebab had become part of its own national cuisine.
The traditional way of cooking meat on a vertical rotisserie goes back to the 16th Century, according to Turkey's International Doner Federation (Udofed), and the name doner is related to that cooking technique.
It requested the EU to impose uniform rules across the bloc requiring that:
- the meat would come from a cow aged over 16 months, lamb aged at least six months, or chicken thighs and breasts;
- veal and turkey meat would be banned;
- meat would have to be sliced to a thickness of 3-5mm;
- the type of knife would be regulated and marinades would be subject to rules too.
The German variant of a kebab often uses veal in a flatbread packed with vegetables including red cabbage, pickles, red onions and topped with sauces - and so could be viewed as a European take on the Turkish classic.
The Turkish federation failed to consult Germany's kebab industry, which hit back with the support of the government in Berlin. The German food and agriculture ministry expressed astonishment at the Turkish bid.
Former German food and agriculture minister Cem Özdemir emphasized that it was up to everyone in Germany to decide how a doner should be eaten, dismissing the need for guidelines from Ankara. The doner belongs to Germany, he asserted.
If Udofed had followed through with its bid, it would have affected a European industry largely dominated by the Turkish diaspora. In Germany alone, there are more than 1.5 million Turkish citizens, and the kebab industry employs about 60,000 people.
The Turkish federation officially withdrew its proposal on September 23, after receiving numerous objections, with reports indicating the initiative was likely heading toward rejection.
