Prada Acknowledges Indian Heritage Amid Footwear Controversy

In response to criticism, Prada recognizes the Indian roots of its newly revealed sandals, reminiscent of traditional Kolhapuri footwear, showcasing a tension between cultural heritage and fashion commercialization.

Italian luxury fashion house Prada has recently acknowledged the Indian origins of its latest sandal line, following a backlash over allegations of cultural appropriation. The sandals, showcased at Milan Fashion Week, featured a braided pattern that closely mimicked that of traditional Kolhapuri sandals from Maharashtra and Karnataka, leading to significant controversy in India.

When Prada first unveiled the sandals, it referred to them simply as “leather footwear” and failed to mention their cultural significance, resulting in accusations of exploitation and disregard for the artisans who have crafted these traditional sandals for generations. In response, Prada issued a statement recognizing the inspiration drawn from the Kolhapuri design and emphasized its respect for craftsmanship and heritage.

A spokesperson for Prada confirmed that the company is in discussions with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture regarding these issues. Lorenzo Bertelli, head of Corporate Social Responsibility at Prada, indicated that the sandals were still in the early stages of development. He expressed a willingness to engage with Indian artisans for a meaningful exchange of ideas and practices.

Kolhapuri sandals, made from leather and often dyed with natural colors, have a history that dates back to the 12th century. They were granted Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Indian government in 2019, marking them as an authentic product of the region. This tag is significant under international trade agreements, identifying goods based on their geographical origin.

Many Kolhapuri artisans expressed their dismay over the lack of credit for their traditional designs. “These sandals represent years of hard work by leather craftsmen in Kolhapur. They should carry our name, not be rebranded by others,” stated artisan Prabha Satpute. The disparity in pricing also drew criticism, with local craftsmen earning significantly less for handmade replicas while luxury brands profit from their cultural heritage.

This incident isn't the first of its kind—global brands often face backlash for appropriating Indian designs without recognition. Previous cases include Gucci's mislabeling of a sari at the Cannes Film Festival and the misappropriation of the dupatta in a TikTok trend. Nevertheless, some artisans in Kolhapur still feel a sense of pride, noting that the controversy has brought visibility to their craft. Businessman Dileep More remarked that recognition from a major brand like Prada boosts the morale of local artisans.