Attiéké, the fermented cassava dish hailing from Ivory Coast, has recently garnered international recognition, making its mark alongside global culinary giants like Japanese sake and Caribbean cassava bread in the UNESCO cultural heritage listing. BBC Africa correspondent Mayeni Jones, who grew up in Ivory Coast, passionately shares her affection for this beloved staple food.
As a child, the rhythmic calls of street vendors announcing "Attiéké chaud!" reverberated through her neighborhood, a reminder of the comforting presence this dish holds in Ivorians' daily lives. Now, over two decades later, women still traverse the bustling streets of Abidjan, selling wrapped portions of attiéké, which continues to dominate hospitality menus across the city, from casual eateries to upscale dining establishments.
Its versatility has allowed attiéké to transcend borders, becoming a favorite in French-speaking nations and seeing a significant presence in Ghana and Sierra Leone. The dish’s unique flavor profile stems from its fermented cassava base, which is grated, dried, and steamed, resulting in a fluffy texture reminiscent of couscous.
Renowned Ivorian chef Rōze Traore describes attiéké as having a "fluffy yet granular" consistency, with a tang that enhances spicy and savory accompaniments. Paule-Odile Béké, an Ivorian chef and Masterchef competitor, emphasizes its complexity, using adjectives like "sour, zingy, and sweet" to depict the taste. Additionally, attiéké is gluten-free and comes in various grain sizes; the finest quality often commands a higher price—some purveyors even offer a striking red variation, infused with palm oil.
Traditionally, attiéké is served with grilled chicken or fish and accompanied by a light, spicy tomato sauce, creating an unforgettable flavor experience. Béké recalls how this dish was one of the first meals she prepared for her husband, leading to dreams of opening a restaurant specializing in it.
Originally reserved for celebrations such as weddings, attiéké's prevalence has evolved; it is now an everyday food that brings people together. Chef Charlie Koffi eloquently mentions its role in fostering camaraderie, likening it to other cultural staples. Sharing attiéké is about community—friends and families gather to indulge in this cherished dish, often enjoying it with friends over cold drinks.
For Jones, attiéké is not only about taste; it's a portal to her childhood, evoking fond memories and unresolved feelings from a turbulent past. The 1999 military coup that forced her from Abidjan left her yearning for the familiar comforts of home, which attiéké elegantly represents. Even during her time abroad, she sought out this dish, showcasing its deep emotional connections.
Her culinary journey also reveals that attiéké was once paired primarily with a traditional stew called kedjenou, a fragrant mix of local chicken cooked over an open flame and served with the dish, while its modern pairings have been influenced by French customs. The introduction of attiéké to a broader audience coincides with its recent recognition for cultural preservation, raising hope that appreciation for this quintessentially Ivorian dish will flourish beyond its borders.
With this newfound status, the cultural significance and flavor of attiéké—an emblem of togetherness and home—might finally receive the appreciation it deserves on a global stage.
Mayeni Jones continues to celebrate Ivorians' rich culinary heritage, hoping that attiéké will inspire similar love and recognition among food enthusiasts worldwide.
