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Sushi Amidst Strife: A Taste of Normalcy in Sloviansk

In the besieged city of Sloviansk, sushi emerges as a symbol of resilience and normalcy amid war.

By Cassandra Vinograd, Dzvinka Pinchuk and Brendan HoffmanSource: nytimes.com1 min read
Sushi Amidst Strife: A Taste of Normalcy in Sloviansk
Image via nytimes.com

In brief

In the heart of Sloviansk, a city beleaguered by artillery fire from Russian forces, the unexpected emergence of sushi as a culinary choice offers residents a fleeting respite in a time of turmoil. Serhii Kovalov, a 30-year-old restaurant owner, defies the grim reality by navigating the dangerous supply chains to serve fresh sushi, attracting customers amidst the backdrop of constant threats. His establishment, Slavnyi Horod—or "Glorious City"—brought sushi onto the menu following the escalation of conflict in February 2022, a dish not previously featured. Mr. Kovalov's determination to remain in Sloviansk signals a deeper commitment to the community, as residents weigh their options of fleeing versus seeking solace in the familiar flavors of sushi during the ongoing conflict.

As the specter of war looms close, the sushi served by Mr. Kovalov serves not just as a meal but as an emblem of hope and normalcy in the lives of those still standing firm in a town that has endured relentless assaults. While many contemplate leaving, he chooses to stay, emphasizing the need for comfort and community amid adversity.

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