In brief
In a city with limited surf options, adventurers like Henry Hurren embrace the unpredictable surf at lesser-known locations, proving that excitement can be found anywhere.
On a breezy Sunday in February, Henry Hurren braved the waters off Tung Lung Chau, a largely deserted island near Hong Kong, in a pursuit not for the faint-hearted. For almost two hours, Hurren, a 32-year-old nature guide and surfing instructor, endured the tumultuous waters to capture fleeting moments riding a modest wave. The half-hour ferry journey to the island bustled with day trippers, passing by lively outdoor eateries and campers as Hurren donned his wetsuit, ready to tackle the challenge awaiting him.The wave he aimed to surf is known as a slab, a rapid swell that crashes into rocks rather than the smooth, rolling surf found in elite surfing destinations like Bali. Hurren repeatedly caught the wave, only to be tossed back into the chilly waters shortly after. Many enthusiasts shy away from surfing slabs, but Hurren relishes the physical intensity it demands, describing it as “a really concentrated version of surfing.” In Hong Kong, which boasts over 250 islands in the South China Sea, the surfing community congregates around a handful of beaches. Unfortunately, these locations often lack the reliable swells that seasoned surfers crave year-round. Nevertheless, their proximity to a bustling metropolis of around 7.5 million people keeps the spirit of the sport alive, as determined surfers like Hurren continue to explore and share the thrill of the hunt for the perfect wave.
